<p>Yes, need 3 five gal primer for all the new drywall, ceiling paint, wall paint and trim paint. Doesn’t even include what I need for exterior trim.</p>
<p>“Everyone that paints a lot should join Home Depot Pro Paint”</p>
<p>I am not sure about that, other paint companies may have a better deal than 5% discount. However, I will stick with HD because I am there three times a day, its like home away from home. :)</p>
<p>When I say two coats, I meant two coats of paint, not primer. counting primer its three coats. </p>
<p>In one room, I have to paint the BLACK Wall to white, just guess how many coats I need primer & paint…</p>
<p>I didn’t know what you meant by ‘Marquee’ paint, but I just received a coupon that allows me to buy 1 gallon of the Marquee paint for 1 cent. It looks like it is fade resistant and resistant to dirt and dust on the exterior. Since I will be doing a lot of exterior window trim and I have selected a dark color for the window trim, I’ll try this paint since I can buy 2 gallons for the price of 1 (50% off).</p>
<p>I don’t think I’ll be able to certify whether it lasts a lifetime or doesn’t fade, because hopefully I will have this house sold before my lifetime ends :)</p>
<p>We hope you sell this house easily… and then start another one and give us updates. It’s been fun to be along for the ride ;</p>
<p>Happy to report that we started drywall installation today!! We made the deadline I had imposed but still had plumbing to complete. So the guys are madly under the house below the bathrooms crawling between floor joists trying to finish up a dryer vent that has to travel half the width of the house and find an exit point - it’s been a bear. </p>
<p>Also, they still need to put in the drain line for the shower.</p>
<p>I decided to call the tankless water heater manufacturer and try to get a straight answer on size of gas line needed and other questions. This is what RHEEM told me about my 9.4 gpm 199k BTU natural gas outdoor unit:</p>
<p>1) 3/4" gas line is more than adequate if your run from the meter is less than 40ft. Over 40’ needs to be a 1" line. This is for the smaller unit we have</p>
<p>2) No venting required at all for an outdoor unit. The intake and outtake are on the front panel (not on top). You just have to be careful not to obstruct the front of the unit.</p>
<p>3) If in an area that freezes, you have to make sure you keep the unit connected to the electrical because there is some kind of ‘sensor’ that kicks in if temperature gets low and there is danger of unit freezing.</p>
<p>You may want to check the code for the 4’ clearance, call the building department and see what they say.
I guess the size of a unit matters, for a 3 bathroom installation you may need a 1’ my quote of 1’ is based on 3 bathroom installation</p>
<p>Another strange controversy, manufacturer suggested 4’ from windows, I know code for a gas meter is 3’ and now my fancy plumber is insisting 5’away from window. Luckily he can put it wherever he wants, all the lines are about 4’ away from the window and the unit itself can have flex line at least 12"</p>
<p>In one project we had 5 different county inspectors. Each one had a different requirement on the same issue. I thought we will never finish our project. But we did. :)</p>
<p>Time for the weekly update on progress. Our main objective this week was to get drywall installation completed. In order to have drywall installed we have to make sure that every single thing in the walls is done including electrical outlets, electric switches, fans, lighting, thermostat wiring, doorbell wiring, cable outlets, you name it… we will forget it until after the drywall goes up :)</p>
<p>Another thing required to start drywall is to have the subfloors screwed back into place for safety. A lot of plumbers, electricians have to crawl under the house and do the work. We have found it is easier to cut open the floors in the bathrooms and kitchens to get this work done efficiently. Well, we didn’t make our target of being all buttoned up for the drywallers, we had to keep both bathroom floors open for awhile. First thing is we needed to finish the drain for the washing machine in the laundry closet. Then we realized we needed a P Trap, and on and on. Finally we thought we were ready and I realized that we needed to run a vent to the outside for the dryer. I loaded a picture of the last minute dryer vent installation getting installed. Oh, and then I realized that there is a little wire that has to run from the tankless water heater to a remote control that can be installed inside the house - Yikes!! The wire is only X long and has fittings at both ends so it is going to have to be on the wall in the Master Bedroom. Oh well.</p>
<p>Pictures have been loaded to show that we did get our drywall up!! I am trying to take pictures at the same angles in the rooms so that you can see the progress. </p>
<p>Drywall installed and first set of joint mud.
Attic access built out and drywalled
Tankless water heater installed on exterior - not plumbed yet
New dedicated gas line to water heater
AC and condenser line installed, condenser drain into bathroom sink drain
Floorboards installed
Bathtub installed
Bathtub and Shower valves installed
Two windows installed
Pocket door for bathroom installed</p>
<p>Our goal for next week is:
Front fence
Side fence
Drywall completed
All drywall primed
Ceilings painted
Interior doors installed
Bathroom floor tiled (so we can get closer to having an inside toilet!!)</p>
<p>Don’t have a budget update right now.</p>
<p>Looks fantastic! Putting up the drywall makes it look almost like a real house. The vaulted ceiling in the kitchen is fabulous.</p>
<p>How much longer until it’s ready to go on the market?</p>
<p>Are you going to take the concrete steps out where you removed the exterior door?</p>
<p>Why two kinds of sheet rock in the kitchen?</p>
<p>Looks like the lower sheetrock is the waterproof kind you use in bathrooms, judging by the color.</p>
<p>The green drywall is ‘mold resistant’ drywall. I use it in any areas where there is potential water such as bathrooms and bottom area of kitchens. Just an extra touch.</p>
<p>Regarding the concrete steps - these used to come out of a laundry room door. I will be building a back deck just above those steps. Hopefully will not have to jack hammer them out and haul away the concrete:) Going to do the same thing with the front small concrete steps.</p>
<p>My goal is to be able to take photos by October 20th or so. I have 3 stages of completion:</p>
<p>1) Photo ready (lots of things don’t have to work)
2) Open House Ready (some things don’t have to work yet)
3) Home Inspection Ready (after offer acceptance) - this is do or die day</p>
<p>coralbrook, will you do some kind of photo display for the before, the work in process, and the after for your open house? I went on the Franklin (TN) tour of historic homes in June and a house that was about 80-85% complete for renovation had a display of photos which made the house tour of that particular property more interesting. I certainly had an appreciation of what the owner (who was the next door neighbor of the property and great nephew of the previous owner) had been through and the quality of work involved.</p>
<p>^^ Some of the homes we’ve redone, you would not want to show ‘before’ pix of the place. Gross enough that you might lose your appetite for the house regardless of what it now looks like.</p>
<p>I agree with ihs76. If you can view our group photos that we have on Flickr (if you cannot see them, PM me if you want to see them) you would realize that this house was so utterly disgusting that people might think that cooties are still inside the house 
Even though all the plaster walls were ripped off, it is very hard to get past the original condition.</p>
<p>However, the before and after photos would definitely illustrate a huge transition, ton of money spent, etc.</p>
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<p>The walls of one house were brown from cigarette smoke and the brown liquid dripped off the walls when we cleaned it. Then we repainted it all. 2 years later, the renters mentioned that sometimes they would have brown spots forming on the ceiling spontaneously and wondered what it was. The ‘juice’ in the drywall…</p>
<p>I hadn’t thought about it that way. I guess it’s one thing to see the before photos on a tour, but might not always be such a good thing to show a potential buyer. I’ve enjoyed your photos, btw, and can see the significant amount of work you’ve undertaken. Hope you get through all 3 stages of your goals quickly:)</p>
<p>I don’t specify greenboard anymore, it’s not really mold resistant and it’s no good as tile backerboard. So I use either cement board or drywall labeld mold resistant (I don’t think it’s green anymore, but maybe it still is in some brands?) in bathrooms and kitchens.</p>