<p>Last time we were there, we stayed in the warehouse district between the river and downtown. We liked it a lot more than the touristy French Quarter, and it was cheaper, too. Easy walking or trolley rides to the French Quarter and the Garden District. And there were lots of serious art galleries and music clubs. We were across the street from Howlin Wolf (someone posted the link above). We went to a show there, left at 2 am, and when we left our hotel to go to the airport at 6 am the show was still going on!</p>
<p>New Orleans is heaven if you like music. There are all kinds there, and the quality of street buskers is amazing. But if you have any interest I would urge you to educate yourself a little in advance about New Orleans brass bands. It’s really a genre that’s unique to New Orleans, and unlike Dixieland jazz (which is undeniably great there), it’s a vibrant, living, evolving popular music form. And really exciting. My wife kind of relies on me to find stuff like this, and feels free to express her opinions up or down afterwards, and she says that a ReBirth Brass Band show I dragged her to in New Orleans was one of the best, most exciting shows she had been to in her life. </p>
<p>A typical brass band consists of 8-9 musicians, always a snare drum, bass drum, and tuba, and then some mixture of trumpets, trombones, and/or saxophones. The music is highly rhythmic dance music that shades into Dixieland at one end and hip-hop at the other, with a lot of soul in between. There is often some vocal element, singing or rapping – and if so, like lots of hip-hop, it may sometimes be R-rated. Gold-standard names in the genre include the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, ReBirth Brass Band, The Hot 8, Treme Brass Band. Most New Orleans-based brass solo artists (like Kermit Ruffins, Trombone Shorty, and once upon a time Louis Armstrong) got their start in the brass band world.</p>
<p>With a little bit of digging, you can hear brass bands almost anytime around New Orleans. There used to be a club called Donna’s that had several brass band nights/week, but that closed recently. ReBirth has a standing gig at the Maple Leaf, and other bands play there. Howlin Wolf also books name-brand bands. And sometimes they just play on the street in the French Quarter for tips, especially if they are young and hungry.</p>
<p>Anyway, go listen to a brass band . . . and get a muffaletta at the Central Grocery. (Two or more people can split one.)</p>